El Norteno   

6416 Zuni Rd SE
Albuquerque, NM 87108
505-256-1431
www.northernnewmexico/elnorteno

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South of the New Mexico border, a merriment of moles, asada, and meats steeped in sun-dried spices awaken taste buds and titillate tummies. Calbrito (goat), tacos pescado (swells of cod) and cochinita pibil (pork and citrus steamed in banana leaves) are par. But one need not venture across the border to savor such peerless offerings. Leo and Marta Nuez celebrate their native Guadalajara and Guaymas with these same geographically distinct dishes at their restaurant, El Norteo. The exotic menu-seven pages of detail-takes an afternoon on the restaurant's lovely patio and perhaps a couple of Negra Models to devour. The culinary tome is as fat and delicious as Chef Nunez' de nopales, tacos stuffed with marinated cactus leaves, which we shared. The most seductive offering, however, is the carne adobada, pork marinated in El Norteo's special blend of chile, garlic, cumin and oregano. The gentle sweet-smelling fusion awakens even the most finicky taste buds. The menu is also a tutorial in the Spanish language. Botanas, postres, and puerco may cause pause for those of us whose Spanish vocabulary is limited to "Buenos dias." Fortunately, menu translations save face.