O K Cafe   

Waitresses in classic '50s diner garb -- white smocks and sneakers, bobby socks and tiara cap -- dash back and forth. For breakfast and Sunday brunch, try the french toast made from thick, whole-grain bread deep fried to a crispy turn and covered with powdered sugar. There are also apple pancakes, gigantic omelets and biscuits that draw raves. Lunch offers big burgers, salads and blue-plate specials. Among the hefty dinners are roast turkey with cornbread dressing and country-fried steak with such side dishes as six-cheese macaroni (for those not worrying about cholesterol) and the rather unusual honey-sweetened collard greens. Desserts also are nostalgic: strawberry shortcake, banana splits and even a black-cow shake (chocolate and vanilla, for those who aren't old enough to remember the term).