Aida Bistro   

7185 Gateway Dr # A
Columbia, MD 21046
410-953-0500
www.aidabistro.com

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Folks didn't become too attached when AIDA Bistro opened in an unassuming shopping center in the middle of a Columbia industrial park -- several Italian restaurants had tried and failed in the same location. But AIDA -- lunchtime carryout on one side and cozy, affordable sit-down on the other -- apparently took note of what did and didn't work for its predecessors. Named for Joe Barbera's mother, Aida (who still welcomes diners at the door), AIDA was runner up in the Restaurant Association of Maryland's 'Best New Restaurant' category in 2003. Barbera aims for the feel of his own dining room, and family members lend their names to some of AIDA's most popular dishes. His son contributed Jeffrey Loves Spinach, a salad with olives, red onions, Portabella and enough leafy stuff to make Popeye green with envy. Emil's eggplant parmigiano is his father-in-law's creation of battered, baked eggplant with marinara and mozzarella, while Uncle Frank's fra diavolo (shrimp in a spicy red pepper sauce) and veal marsala are best sellers. There are other enticing seafood, chicken, veal and beef dishes, a pre-fix dinner option and an impressive wine bar. -- Pete Kerzel