Arcos Restaurante   

129 S Broadway
Baltimore, MD 21231
410-522-4777

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Three years of backbreaking labor and painstaking detail paid off handsomely for Nicolas Ramos, who opened Arcos Restaurante in Upper Fells Point. The burgeoning Latin enclave has resulted in an infusion of enthic eateries, but few boast the ambience created here. Stroll through the dining room -- where brick archways, frosted glass and wooden joists create intimate, candlelit cubbyholes next to handmade tables with intricately carved high-back chairs -- and you get a feel for Ramos' mission. He hand-finished accents in the sheetrock ceiling and used leftover construction materials for much of the work. The one-sheet menu's offerings aren't many, but portions are generous, including a hefty but cheap margarita. A Mexican turn on shrimp cocktail in chico or grande portions, and sauteed chicken or shredded beef that come packed in deep-fried tacos are familiar fare. Tostadas, enchiladas and tamales may be enjoyed inside or al fresco, on a brick-paved courtyard where a mesquite grill will turn lamb and pig, and salsa dancing will enliven Broadway. Menudo (tripe soup), barbacoa de borrego (a roasted lamb), arroz con vegatales (rice and vegetables), pollo horneado (marinated chicken leg/thigh combination), frijoles charros (Mexican beans) and lengua (slow-cooked beef tongue) are authentic if unusual dishes. -- Pete Kerzel