Bamboo House   

26 Cranbrook Rd
Cockeysville, MD 21030
410-666-9550
www.bamboohouserestaurant.com

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A massive tree trunk carved into a mountain tableau complete with wild horses stands guard in the foyer to let you know that this Chinese restaurant, sibling of Joey Chiu Greenspring Inn, has intentions. Yes, it's located in an ugly strip mall, but inside all is pleasantly attired in soothing pinks and grays.More importantly, the seafood specialties are worth seeking out. Sometimes you'll find treasures like periwinkles and soft-shell crabs on the menu, at their best simply prepared, say, stir-fried with asparagus or crisply fried. And hearty-looking specimens from the lobster tank are always available to be prepared as you like -- Cantonese, say, or fiery Szechuan-style. The highlight, however, is exactingly fresh whole rockfish, perfectly steamed and served in your choice of sauce; we recommend the zingy black bean. Sushi is also available.