Chinatown Cafe Inc   

323 Park Ave
Baltimore, MD 21201
410-727-5599

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Set in the remnants of Baltimore's Chinatown, this restaurant is a reminder of what once was before a mass exodus to suburban strip malls left most of the buildings sporting Chinese-language signs as boarded-up shells. Clearly the food -- prepared with obvious care -- is what draws people to this desolate strip of Mount Vernon's Park Avenue. The menu includes both Cantonese- and Hong Kong-style dishes. Fried foods are crispy and light, and steamed vegetables retain their crunch beneath sauces that don't overpower. Dim sum -- the Chinese version of tapas -- is served every day, so you can try out dishes like steamed chicken feet in black bean sauce or shark fin dumplings without much commitment. The seafood is so fresh that you actually can visit with it on your way in, as there is a large tank of fish in the vestibule that's definitely not there as decoration. In fact, very little is there for decoration. The restaurant is clean and spacious, but low on the charm scale. Large tables in the center are set up for family-style dining, while smaller tables line the walls. -- Laureen Miles Brunelli