Mt Royal Tavern   

If Jack Kerouac lived in Baltimore today, you'd probably find him at the Mount Royal Tavern. The drinks are cheap -- twenty bucks goes a long way -- and the atmosphere is smoky and artsy. This is the watering hole for Maryland Institute College of Art students. Art exhibitions hang on the walls and the dark, comfortable bar has an intricate ceiling mural. Conversation ranges from the ridiculous to the sublime, but the food is pedestrian: peanuts, chips, pretzels and pizzas cooked in an oven that has seen better days. You'll probably want to pass on the daily food specials - everyone else seems to. If you're looking to meet interesting characters in a very informal place, MRT is your ticket. The jukebox would please any music junkie. It's filled with punk, hip-hop, psychedelic rock, country greats, Coltrane and Miles. Don't be surprised if someone starts an argument over which jazz giant was more influential. -- Penny Colton