Nichiban of Federal Hill Inc   

Art on the walls and jazzy tunes in the air give this Federal Hill Japanese eatery a decidedly less traditional atmosphere. Servers in jeans and black polo shirts set an informal tone right from the start. A sushi bar runs the length of the restaurant and is the site of friendly repartee between the chef and diners. The narrow dining room's salmon-colored walls act as the backdrop for a rotation of work by local artists. An occasional Japanese print fills the space and reminds you what you came for: sushi. The menu does offer other Japanese dishes, such as tempura and teriyaki, and a selection of udon dishes, but the focus is on sushi. Sushi and sashimi dinners offer a medley of the more conventional raw options. But be sure to try one of the specialty rolls, such as the Baltimore roll, where Old Bay gives heat to the crab stuffed maki roll. -- Laureen Miles Brunelli