Tio Pepe Restaurante   

The scene at this Mount Vernon institution has changed little in its 35-plus years: The cozy, underground space is defined by elegant arches and flickering candlelight. Career waiters slip between tightly-packed tables topped with white linen and colorful pitchers of sangria, delivering generous portions of traditional yet innovative Spanish cuisine. Continental entrees such as filet of sole with bananas and hollandaise sauce and beef in a sherry sauce with mushrooms are splendid examples of the creativity displayed by the chef. Two of the best known dishes -- the paella and the roast suckling pig -- take extra prep time, so come early and enjoy some sangria while you wait. End the night with the legendary pine nut cake roll or the chocolate souffle. This is a nice place to take a date when you don't mind leaning in for an intimate conversations. Large groups may find themselves shouting across the table, adding to the considerable noise level. Reservations are an absolute must, and even with them you may wait. -- Laureen Miles Brunelli