El Salto Inc   

The heaping plates of nachos are not the only cheesy things in this cantina making its home in a former fast food joint in a rundown little Brooklyn Park shopping center. Fake stone, an amateurish mural of a waterfall and the odd sombrero here and there work hard to remind you this is a Mexican restaurant. But with all the lovely aromas wafting in, is that really necessary? Don't worry, though, because what El Salto lacks in decor it more than makes up for in taste. Dozens of combo plates and a huge Mexican beer selection make this place a crowd pleaser. While the menu might seem typical Tex Mex -- burritos, chimichangas, chiles rellenos, tacos and the like -- the execution is not. The guac is fresh, the enchiladas are fat and the price is right. Heat ranges from flavorful to taste bud scorching. The default falls somewhere on the milder side, but if you like it hot, all you need to do is say so. While the boarded up drive-thru window is evidence that the fast food days are long gone, the service is still quite speedy. -- Laureen Miles Brunelli