B Good   

In the wake of the sobering statistics cited in the book 'Fast Food Nation,' and the Gothic spectacle of the documentary 'Super Size Me,' wherein director Morgan Spurlock courts cardiac arrest by dining at McDonald's for a month, fast food is now seen as only slightly less toxic than cigarettes. Putting a fresh spin on the eat-and-run phenomenon is b. good, a forum for feel-good fast food cannily situated within sniffing distance of Back Bay Station. From its Starbucks-modern design scheme (earth tones, track lighting and oeuvres by local artists) to its disclosure of each dish's calorie content, b. good will dupe few diners into mistaking it for Burger King. For those with Whopper tastes and waif-look aspirations, the menu offers healthful alternatives including a Southwestern veggie burger (a flavorful patty of grains and black beans souped up with avocado, cilantro, chipotle salsa and black beans), turkey sandwiches (5.4 grams of fat) and "real fries" (which probably should be called "unfries," since they're prepared in an oven). Despite the imprimatur of L'Espalier alumnus Tony Rosenfeld, who developed the recipes, the menu is more Au Bon Pain than haute cuisine. Rosenfeld's trick for camouflaging slim pickings as junk food involves the creative use of condiments and liberal infusions of spice. While the method works well with vegetarian entrees, the restaurant's meat dishes may remind patrons why fast food became so popular in the first place (one word: fat).