Border Cafe   

It's impossible to describe the appeal of the Border Cafe to a person who's never been there -- after all, what's so special about walls crammed with "Texicana," a bar swarming with students and a bathtub brimming with bottled beers? The answer, though obvious to the restaurant's many fans, may at first seem ineffable to a newcomer. Registering the noise, the ubiquitous undergraduates, the cacti, pinatas and sombreros, one may at first have the feeling that this is Harvard Square's answer to Chi-Chi's. Then the complimentary basket of warm chips arrives, complete with a tub of fresh salsa. Depending on your tastes, you order a Corona from the claw-footed tub or a fabled Margarita from the drink menu. One sip of the latter and you start to realize why this downscale eatery is such a cult favorite with Cantabridgeans.After sampling a gargantuan entree from the menu's list of Tex-Mex and Cajun specialties, you'll have learned to stop worrying and love the ubiquitous kitsch. And, when the bill arrives, amounting to less than the average movie ticket, you'll be well on your way to becoming a regular. Though reliable in most of its offerings, the kitchen is especially adept at Mexican staples like enchiladas, quesadillas, burritos and fajita platters. Those hoping to wander the culinary map can experiment with blackened swordfish and crawfish etouffee, while those with no particular love of authenticity can opt for the jalapeno poppers. Border Cafe's one obvious drawback -- its long lines -- are a deterrent to ravenous diners, but the staff's provision of beepers makes it easy to sign in early and stroll the Square (or even sit down for an appetizer) while you wait.