Bristol Lounge   

200 Boylston St
Boston, MA 02116
617-351-2037
www.fourseasons.com/boston/dining/the_bristol_lounge.html

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Those who thought the power breakfast had gone the way of the Internet boom will find much evidence to the contrary at the remodeled Bristol Lounge. Here, among the luxuriant linens and flourishing flower arrangements one expects of a Four Seasons subsidiary, Gordon Gekkos of the new millennium graze on grilled tenderloin (served with eggs, potatoes and bearnaise sauce) and lobster benedict. Such morning fare may seem like an angioplasty waiting to happen, but it's all part of the theme driving the new Bristol: excess in the offerings and minimalism in the decor. Gone is the clubby, Brahmin vibe of the old venue, which has been replaced by mod, neo-'80s touches such as geometric lamps and an orange-and-red carpet that appears to have been doodled on by Keith Haring. The room's most striking feature remains its view of the Public Garden, which seems an idiosyncratic accompaniment to a dining experience few can afford. Despite daring dishes such as sweet-pea ravioli and salad Nicoise with Maine lobster, the new Bristol's biggest draw is a holdover from its old menu: the blue-chip burger, which regulars consider a steal at $17.