Franklin Cafe   

Now that smoking is verboten at Franklin Cafe, guests no longer need to wait for tables in a Marlboro haze. And waiting is an essential part of any visit to this South End staple, where the scrum inside the door is generally so thick that even a greased pig couldn't make it to the bar. Once you've staked out a patch of floor on which to juggle your coat and drink, you'll have plenty of time to contemplate what keeps locals coming back to a place so perennially packed. The answer lies partly in the crowd itself, which reflects the neighborhood's congenial mix of ages, tax brackets and sexual orientations. A long block away from the foodie stampedes of Tremont Street, Franklin's clientele is less about culinary splendor than solid, satisfying grub. And -- as waiting rooms go -- its feng shui is far superior to that of a dentist's office, with tomato-colored walls providing a dramatic backdrop for several striking paintings.The affordable, late-night menu (the kitchen serves until 1:30AM) follows a modern American theme, offering inventive comfort food. Garlic-grilled calamari is adorned with pesto and served on a bed of baby white beans. Almond-crusted catfish has a surprisingly frothy sauce of fragrant tarragon and sharp mustard. There's no dessert, however -- a fact some find disappointing after the long purgatory of procuring a table. Linger over coffee, blood-orange martinis or a fresh bottle from the surprisingly affordable wine list.