Mistral Restaurant   

Mistral is one of those rare Boston restaurants (more commonly found in New York) that begins broadcasting its status from the sidewalk. From the limousines idling on Columbus Avenue to the fleet of sharp-dressed men guarding the door (Valets? Bouncers? Secret Service?), this theatrical dining space is every bit the destination it was when it opened in 1997. As a see-and-be seen scene, however, it has aged into an older, more inclusive environment than it was in its early days, when one could scarcely get one's drink to one's mouth without spilling it on a model or celebrity. Not that the buzz is gone -- the reservation list still brims with names from the entertainment pages -- but it's no longer quite as shrill, allowing even the least fashion-victimized diners to enjoy chef Jamie Mammano's eclectic cuisine. Though its decor derives from Provencal and its name refers to a breeze found in the South of France, Mistral's menu refuses to be restricted to one region. The kitchen has a knack for exploiting the excellence of luxury ingredients, evident in preparations both predictable (Dover sole) and inimitable (''Half Whole'' roasted duck with wild-mushroom risotto and dried cranberry gastrique). Despite these decadent options, it remains possible to dine well and affordably here, choosing from simple selections like thin-crust pizzas (especially tomato, mozzarella and oregano) or Mistral linguine (with tiny tomatoes, arugula and shaved parmesan). The wine list ranges from reasonable to rarefied, with a creditable selection of mid-range bottles. And Mistral wouldn't have retained its reputation if the atmosphere weren't enticing, with its soaring ceiling and plush banquettes providing a suitable stage for dining as intimate -- or as extravagant -- as you want it to be.