Umberto Galleria   

Pizzeria Regina gets all the hype, but North Enders know that the neighborhood's best pizza can be found at the unsung Galleria Umberto. Despite its downscale decor (Formica tables and fake flowers) and fixation on frying, this cafeteria-style Sicilian joint is standing room only seven days a week. Even its affordability (you'd have to gorge yourself to spend more than $10 on lunch) can't explain the cult following that rates Umberto its own slot on the Freedom Trail -- the answer, it seems, is on the culinary flair contained in its calzones (which come filled with various combinations of spinach, sausage, cheese or ham), Panzarotti (potato croquettes with mozzarella and chives), deep fried dishes (among them arancini, crispy balls of rice brimming with peas, cheese and ground beef) and spectacular slices. Less is more when it comes to the pizza, a rectangular crust topped with robust tomato sauce and oven-browned cheese. A glass of wine can be had for less than it costs to feed the meters (if you can find one) on Hanover Street, securing this spot's status as an inviting alternative to the North End's many expense account eateries.