Uncle Pete's Hickory Ribs   

It's hard to go three blocks in Boston without stumbling over an Irish pub, a seafood palace, a sports bar, or bookstore. But when it comes to great barbecue, you have to know where to look if you want hickory smoked meats and fall-off-the-bone ribs like you had that one time in Texas. Those in the know have headed to Day Square in East Boston for years where Uncle Pete's occupied a former Dairy Queen in the center of bustling Day Square. In summer 2005, Uncle Pete (alias Pete Cucchiara) relocated to Revere, but none of the kitschy roadside charm was lost in the move. The place is adorned with Stetson hats and framed images of cowboys, all awash in the light of Tiffany chandeliers. The only thing that changed is the liquor license, and that's not necessarily for the worse. Now there's a full bar with all sorts of libations to wash down those ribs. Day and night, diners order takeout from the small counter or settle into the Naugahyde booths (also safely preserved in the move) to enjoy such favorites as chunky pulled pork or lean spare ribs that have been slightly crisped on the outside but remain moist and tender on the inside. The meat is marinated for five hours or more, and each of Pete's signature recipes have been perfected over time. Ribs are cooked with oak and hickory, chicken with applewood and pulled pork is slathered in Pete's own secret dry rub of herbs. With the quality of the meat, it's easy to overlook the inventive side dishes: homemade mashed potatoes, frosted sweet-potato biscuits or sweet baked beans, and even a medley of Asian bites, like a vinegary slaw. We may be time zones away from Texas, but a visit to Pete's is like heading home to the range.