Blackbird Restaurant   

On the quiet, east end of Randolph's Restaurant Row lies Blackbird, Chef Paul Kahan's minimalist shrine to internationally inspired American cuisine. The plate glass and stark white exterior practically glows along the dim strip just east of the Kennedy. And it's not just the design that's drawing attention -- it seems just about everyone has written glowing reviews of Kahan's imaginative dishes. If you meet Kahan (previously Sous Chef at Topolobampo and Chef de Cuisine at Erwin), you'll notice that his warm, unpretentious demeanor contrasts Blackbird's sleek, high style decor (by designer Thomas Schlesser). Wood floors, dark aluminum chairs, a gray mohair banquette, white walls and a lone abstract painting -- the room is rather cold with zero distractions. But that's all part of the plan. The focus is the food, where Kahan's artistry and commitment to stellar products shines. Dishes are complex and intelligent, yet unfussy and honest. Unadventurous diners won't find the token roast chicken or beef tenderloin. Instead, they'll be forced to take a risk along the lines of roasted quail with currant bread pudding or roasted venison loin with wine-poached pears. Don't worry, you really can't go wrong. Blackbird is very Chicago -- metropolitan, stylish and innovative with a strong gust of reality and a heart that still seems unaffected by voluminous praise. Just plan ahead (like months!) if you want a weekend table.