Tiffin Inc   

Paradoxically, the word ''tiffin'' refers to a light midday meal or luncheon, yet Tiffin's fare reaches well beyond the insubstantial. Located in the heart of the Indian section of West Devon Avenue, this upscale restaurant specializing in both North and South Indian cuisine garners a diverse and sizeable crowd on weekend evenings. Its popularity has three sources the flavorful food, the wonderful service and the white tablecloth dcor. With a traditional clay oven, or tandoor, on the premises, lamb, chicken and fish are baked to simple healthy perfection. Vegetarian entrees abound for those more of the South Indian culinary mindset, and while there are plenty of dishes for the faint of palate, there are plenty more vindaloo and chili creations for tongue- searing pleasure. No less than eight kinds of rice grace the menu along with 10 (yes, 10) different types of clay oven-baked bread. Leave a bit of room for an aromatic cup of masala tea at the end of an exotic and satisfying meal. -- Debra Strober