Smackies Smokehouse   

Piles of logs outside the front door play a "role" (so to speak) in Smackies' all-American approach to barbecue. Texas is represented via the brisket, with influences of Memphis and Kansas City in the ribs and chicken. The pulled pork recipe hails from North Carolina, with other Southern comfort foods found in the chicken, dumplings, fried catfish and sausage gumbo (whose ingredients are homemade as well). Plus, all meat is created equal: It cooks for several hours over the seasoned apple and hickory wood and develops what the owners call a pink-colored "smoke ring," signifying flavor. The decor is a slice above the standard carryout; you can sit at individual tables or at a long banquet-style counter as jazz plays on the sound system and lots of natural light filters through. Those with strong constitutions might want to liberate a monstrous smoked bologna sandwich or desserts like pecan bourbon or double chocolate pie. -- Sandra Gurvis