Matt's Rancho Martinez   

Legendary Texas restaurateur Matt Martinez packs in the locals -- singles, as well as families -- at his always-noisy, always-crowded Lakewood restaurant. The kitchen isn't particularly creative, but it does cover all the bases, and it does several things well. The chile relleno, a poblano pepper stuffed with cheese and deep-fried, is reliable and the cheese queso is legendary. The layered Bob Armstrong dip (spiced beef, queso and guacamole) is practically a meal in itself. Those watching their fat intake will appreciate the restaurant's selection of fajitas grilled in canola oil or grilled without oil. Parking can be a problem, especially on weekends when there's usually a line out the door. It typically goes fast and it makes for some fun people watching. If you don't want to wait, avoid prime-time dining and go early or late. -- Kathryn Jones