Massa's Seafood Grill   

1331 Lamar St
Houston, TX 77010
713-655-9100
www.massas.com

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The Massa family, shucking oysters since the war years, added a Cordon Bleu chef to their entourage when planning this upscale grill. Creole traditions are still respected-sauces are smoother and sweeter than a first kiss, and just as memorable-and the oyster is revered. The white- coated waitstaff, crusty French bread and Vieux Carr ambience would delight any Tennessee William character (indeed, we imagine the scent of Guerlain's Shalimar surrounding feminine patrons and have considering carrying a lace handkerchief when we dine at Massa's.) Your grandmother will love it here, as do the most competitive foodies. Along with a perfect crayfish touffe, golden beads of broth throughout the smothering reduction, and a funky dark roux gumbo, the kitchen turns out 21st century culture collusion. Asian influence is evident in a spunky tuna steak served with wasabe and a ginger-soy glaze. In an nod to Mediterranean cuisine, salmon is served with olives, feta, onions and a stout balsamic glaze. Yogurt, mangos, and other not at all New Orleans ingredients are also featured. Though the ambience is old guard, the prices suit those who don't have a family fortune to squander. To bring up young diners right, Massa's frequently has fresh seafood specials.