Harry's Country Club   

Walking into Harry's Country Club is like walking into an Austin roadhouse circa 1959. An upscale roadhouse, to be sure -- don't expect any sawdust on the floor or sagging ceiling tiles in this squeaky clean reproduction -- but one that nonetheless reverently retains the vibe of a classic Lone Star State honky-tonk. Black-and-white photos of bygone country stars line the walls right to the high ceiling. Road signs and mounted animal heads are scattered throughout. The jukebox will cause fits of nostalgia in any former Texans or fans of the music. Bob Wills, Lefty Frizzel, Junior Brown and Dale Watson share space with local acts (Rex Hobart, the Kemps), country traditionalists (George Jones) and modern adapters of the form (Uncle Tupelo). The lighting is low, the bar is long and the mood convivial as a mostly professional and over-40 crowd drains Lone Star draughts. Food includes pizzas, soups, salads and some barbecued items. The wine list has three sections: ''good,'' ''decent'' and ''cheap.'' One for each type of date, perhaps? -- Seth Sherwood