Craft Steak   

The Brown Derby restaurant at the MGM Grand may not have achieved the same legendary status as its Hollywood predecessor, but its closing was mourned by Las Vegas visitors and locals alike. The vacancy was occupied by Craftsteak, a creation of award-winning chef Tom Colicchio, owner of Manhattan's Gramercy Tavern. Colicchio replaced Hollywood sleek with Big Apple chic -- the wood floors, stucco walls and bronze and leather accents have the classy, but comfortable appeal of a decades-old Lower East Side hangout. The kitchen takes a similar back-to-basics approach offering straightforward beef and seafood entrees where the essential flavors take precedence. The ingredients for its specialties are procured from small family farms and day-boat fishermen, insuring a high level of quality and freshness. Main courses include roasted hangar steak, porterhouse for two, braised short ribs, roasted veal loin and veal chops, roasted lamb loin and chops, braised pork belly, roasted chicken, duck and quail, roasted halibut, salt-baked king salmon, braised lobster and striped sea bass. Craftsteak also excels in desserts, offering such sweet delights as raspberry financier, toasted oat waffles, lemon-lime steamed pudding, cinnamon brioche, creme brulee and chocolate truffle cake.