The Buffet at Bellagio   

There were probably a few gasps among the first Bellagio Buffet customers when they were told that dinner would run more than $30 per person. Isn't the buffet supposed to be the low-priced casino dining alternative? It takes guts to open a serve-yourself outlet where the tab more than doubles what other resorts charge, but it's a testament to the quality of the food and the opulence of the surroundings at Bellagio that patrons still line up for the privilege of carrying their own plate. Most of the items offered in the serving lines, particularly at dinner, are not generally found on a buffet. Guests choose from such highfalutin options as leg of lamb, venison, Kobe beef, duck breast, steamed clams, Mako shark, salmon sashimi and apple-smoked sturgeon. Appetizer, salad and side order items are equally enticing, from woodland mushrooms and haricots verts to winter citrus compote. There's also a make-your-own pasta bar. Almost no one saves room for dessert, but one look at the creamy confections and you may be tempted to force yourself. The Tuscan-style decor is predictably upscale, and having two separate serving lines for smoking and non-smoking patrons was an excellent idea. But this is still the adults-oriented Bellagio, so bear in mind that no one under 18 is admitted unless they are guests at the hotel.