Viva Mercados Mexican Rstrnt   

The two primary characteristics of Mexican cuisine are its spicy flavors and the obvious fact that no one will ever confuse it with health food. A meal at Viva Mercado's may not change those perceptions, but it may open one's eyes to other possibilities. They've got a terrific vegetarian menu here, and there's an emphasis on freshness and calorie cutting in the serving of lard-free beans and tortillas and the use of canola oil in cooking. Mercado's also offers several mildly spiced dishes, including a surprising variety of seafood selections and peasant tacos stuffed with soft farmer's cheese, cabbage and only a hint of salted peppers.That said, Viva Mercado's is also a place where the salsa can reach five-alarm fire levels of intensity. The Mercado family stocks a selection of salsas, each rated 1 to 10 on the spice scale. Most diners work their way up in successive visits, until they're properly prepared for an attempt at #10, an uncut green habanero scorcher that may induce sweating, shaking and excessive liquid intake. You've been warned. -- David Hofstede