Bryant & Cooper Steak House   

With a local reputation as beefy as the fare, this cavernous, clamorous steakhouse is perfect for troops of carnivores. But with a sophisticated wine list -- which includes a '00 Stag's Leap from Napa, and a '02 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio -- diners will find more than they bargained for, though not at bargain prices. The menu contains the usual steakhouse fare, from boneless prime rib to fresh fish, and even some little surprises such as broccoli hollandaise, and a creative range of salads. Stone crab claws are also available in season, along with local and far-flung varieties of clams and oysters. The crowd is a ravenous mix of commuting suits and families. There's room for everybody, so diners can feel free to linger and drink at table after dinner. Still, a reservation is wise, especially on the weekends. -- Simon Van Booy