Cafe Testarossa   

There's not much class distinction at Cafe Testarossa -- you're as likely to find folks on their lunch hour from the nearby Woodbury industrial park as you are to overhear ''old money'' magnates discussing their investments over a glass of Opus One. Soft wall sconces cast an appealing light over a contemporary Italian-American menu, from elaborately prepared "primi" dishes (crabmet and shrimp cakes, lobster and vegetable spring rolls) to pasta, chicken, veal and seafood entrees. Desserts aren't an afterthought here -- coconut creme brulee, caramelized banana custard Napoleon and chocolate peanut butter mousse pie with Frangelico-laced chantilly creme are just a few of the more recent creative concoctions (tiramisu, cannoli and sorbet are always on the menu). Live jazz sessions and wine tastings lend a cosmopolian feel to this Syosset favorite. Don't miss the prix fixe ''twilight dinner'' (4:30-6PM Tue.-Sun.).