Dario's Restaurant   

There is a whiff of broad comedy to the proceedings at this classic-style Rockville Centre Italian. The owner greets favored customers with a slight bow and a handshake. At tableside, tuxedoed waiters flip romaine, croutons and dressing into their signature Caesar salad. The garlic bread is so pungent and damp with butter that it is difficult not to make a meal of it alone. For all that, dinner at Dario's does not devolve into high camp and rarely do pie fights break out. Instead, it's simply an excellent, caring Northern Italian that puts a premium on customer satisfaction through classic cuisine and attentive but never fawning service. It's a good place to reacquaint yourself with dishes you may have soured on owing to careless preparations elsewhere. Try appetizers of baked clams topped with breadcrumbs or an order of stuffed mushrooms. The classic piccatas, marsalas, pizzaiolas and parmigianas go above and beyond the call of ordinary. But, as regulars know, the specials are the thing, whether of pasta, fish or veal chops. The wine list is expensive, but there are many high-quality Italians available for well under $30.