Piccolo Restaurant-Huntington   

There's something sexy and indulgent about this Huntington eatery. Maybe it's the dim lighting, dark velvet chairs, tapestry wall hangings or the French doors. A nightly piano player adds to the hideaway ambiance with a routine of jazz and standards. The bar is quite small, but fully stocked and cozy. Although Piccolo specializes in Italian food, the decor tends toward plush and comfortable instead of checkered tablecloths and Campari umbrellas. There is a sensible and hefty wine list, starting at around $20 for a low-end bottle from Long Island vintner Ternhaven to a staggering $650, for an '86 Chateau Margaux. On weekends, expect a thirtyish crowd mingling at the bar. The menu bears no surprises, hosting what you would expect from an upscale Italian. But that doesn't mean there are no standout dishes, and they happen to be the ones that deviate from formula: smoked Nova Scotia salmon and rainbow trout with red and black caviar, or 16-ounce Cajun ribeye. -- Simon Van Booy