Riverbay Seafood Bar & Grill   

The Poll brothers certainly know their strips and filets -- George and Gillis manage Roslyn's Bryant & Cooper Steak House, as well as a couple of Major's Steak Houses around the Island. But Dean Poll has taken the plunge into maritime meals with the Riverbay Seafood Bar and Grill. You won't just find your typical breaded whitefish or popcorn shrimp here -- mahi mahi and monkfish make regular appearances, as well as other unusual ''fresh fishes of the day,'' all of which are handpicked at the Fulton Fish Market by Dean Poll each morning. His brothers' preoccupation with prime rib isn't lost on this restaurateur, who manages to sneak specialty cuts onto the menu to appeal to the steakhouse set. Even though the food is comprised of high-end edibles, the atmosphere remains casual enough for a first date or a family gathering, with a well-appointed dining room boasting a contemporary-meets-classic decor. Get there early for the popular Sunday brunch (reservations are only available for parties of eight or more) or the restaurant's acclaimed wine dinners.