Lobster   

Just a claw's throw from the Santa Monica Pier's looming Ferris wheel stands The Lobster, an ocean lookout that draws crustacean-crazy tourists and natives alike. From the outside, the place looks more beach shack that seafood bistro, with its blocky white facade, gaudy red insignia and sloping roof. Certainly, beach shack would have been an apt description 80 years ago when the seaside fixture first went up, but now the destination's a grand affair that seats over 150, many of whom confess to be Maine transplants nostalgic for a taste of their childhood summers on the coast. Under the direction of former Water Grill chef Allyson Thurber, the eponymous eatery excels at more than just lobster. For instance, the North Carolina black bass on a bed of mash earns consistently high marks. The jumbo lump crab cakes, fried oysters and seared prawns also make the grade, as do the tempting Maine sea scallops Saint-Jacques, buttressed by spinach, grilled tomatoes and asparagus. The Lobster hardly needs its neon sign to attract the throngs that it does. Between the superb shellfish and the swinging bar scene, the place overflows all week long, so reservations are a must.