All' Angelo Ristorante   

What do you get when you cross a big antique Berkel meat-slicer with an even bigger personality and a menu full of Venetian, Sardinian and Sicilian dishes from seasoned chef, Mirko Paderno? Well, this one. Named after owner Stefano Ongaro's father (with a touch of propriety thrown in for the city of angels), All' Angelo is the first venture owned by this former pro Italian baseball pitcher and maitre d' from Valentino and, most recently, Il Grano. In a small space lit by blown-glass fixtures from Murano, All' Angelo serves Italian stars like the warm Maine Lobster salad with wild fennel, roasted quail, pumpkin soup with codfish and the veal and pork baby ribs. Prices skew high, but that's what you pay to get it right. Celebrity note: If you recognize the toque-clad Paderno from somewhere, he was the one who taught Jessica Simpson and Nick Lachey how to prepare lobster ravioli on MTV's 'Newlyweds.'