Hamamori   

If you ever wondered what certain celebrities would be if they were sushi (Are you listening Barbara Walters?), visit Toshi Kihara's popular 60-seat restaurant to get the true Hollywood story. Located in a modest West Los Angeles minimall, Hamasaku has an entire menu devoted to the famous patrons of his restaurant. But the big question is whether it was the sushi that initially drew them in or the fact that former Hollywood uber-agent Michael Ovitz was one of Hamasaku's original investors? Either way, A-list specialties populate a menu focused on innovation and experimentation, evidenced by the "Jennifer Roll" (Jennifer Aniston is made of mango, salmon and avocado), the "Harrison Roll" (Harrison Ford is made of tuna, yellowtail and spicy mayo) and even the "JKX Roll," named after professional sham artist Jamie Kennedy, comprised not coincidentally of apple smelt eggs. If there's any knock on Hamasaku, it's that the common man has been known to take a backseat to more important VIPs by waiting too long on occasion for tables they've already secured via reservation. Once sat, though, the sushi pays off. Witness inspired dishes such as the Japanese burrito (shrimp, spicy tuna, avocado and rice in Japanese soy paper), spicy tuna ravioli (asparagus, spinach and green onion in a creamy soy sauce) and the one-of-a-kind Japanese Jewish pizza (sashimi, lettuce, chives, soy cheese and miso sauce served open face). With chef Kihara's 20-plus years experience at legendary LA eateries like Spago and Ma Maison, there are few others in town to trust with such creative aberrations. -- Gregg Rosenzweig