Mr Cecil's California Ribs   

The debate over Mr. Cecil's barbecue is fierce and never-ending, but no matter how vehement the anti-Cecil camp gets, the fan club remains loyal to the ribs. Marinated and slow-cooked, then served in slabs with a choice of distinctive sauces and down-home side dishes like hushpuppies and corn bread, they're a huge hit with food critics -- a fact which in itself may take away a bit of credibility. Then, there's the question of authenticity. The restaurant looks like an amusement park version of a backwoods barbecue joint, and some say that its food matches. For instance, what backwater dive would serve free-range, low-fat chicken, veggie kabobs and cream soda? But hey, this is a self-styled "California" joint, and as such is entitled to a slightly non-traditional approach. So settle back in the self-consciously saloon-styled dining room, groove to the oldies on the radio, have a beer (or a homemade lemonade... or a Perrier), and order up all the baby backs, St Louis or beef ribs you can handle. If you're not in the mood for 'cue, try the catfish or the smoked tri-tip. Maybe it isn't Memphis -- but baby, it ain't bad. -- Lena Katz