Nbc Seafood Restaurant Inc   

According to legions of loyal customers, the dim sum here is unparalleled -- though the service and atmosphere can leave something to be desired, especially after 11AM on weekends. This is when most people pour in, mouths watering for pork buns, steamed shrimp (live from the tank and boiled to order by the pound), chicken feet and other Chinese brunch traditions. Affluent foodies, extended families, and groups of truculent youngsters who bear a striking resemblance to the cast of "Better Luck Tomorrow" sit elbow-to-elbow in the noisy dining room and devour the food as quickly as it arrives. The array of little delicacies being wheeled around on carts seems endless, and the quality is excellent enough to justify waiting a half-hour or more. During evenings, things are somewhat quieter and service more attentive. Sample your way through seafood specialties or grilled meat dishes. Take a moment to appreciate the gaudy glory of the dining room, with its gilt dragons and other Asian trappings. -- Lena Katz