Providence   

The SceneThe familiar Patina layout remains intact, a series of separate, elegant dining areas, including a subdued lounge, its adjacent nook, a private chef's table, along with the main room and the covered patio annex. Simply decorated in beige-brown hues and absent artwork, save for scattered clusters of porcelain and ceramic seashells, confident servers float about with informed confidence and easygoing charm.The FoodCimarusti transformed Water Grill from cruise ship fare to Le Bernadin rival; here, he again reimagines sophisticated seafood. Starters are divided between hot and cold/raw varieties: Kanpachi is sashimi-delicate and refreshing; sweet Japanese ayu offers a luxuriously crispy skin texture. Entrees and accompaniments are equally enticing; be it the tender snapper served with a sensory wonderland of roma tomato compote and artichoke puree; or the perfectly cooked scallops sided with a savory cauliflower-bacon ravioli. The popular chocolate chibouste dessert is topped with tarragon ice cream and laden with sea salt to offset the sweetness.