Via Veneto   

Anyone who doubts Via Veneto is an authentic Italian experience need only ascend the steep, narrow, wooden staircase that leads diners into a brilliant private dining space where candelabras and dramatic drapes overlook the restaurant's main floor. Opened in the old Il Nido location by two enthusiastic Romans, Marco Cialini and Fabrizio Bianconi, Via Veneto is a charming, high-ceilinged affair, where it's easy to feel welcome -- especially when the owners plop down next to you to share a bottle of Chianti. Tall blinds scatter shadows and rays of light across the walls, creating cool ambient vibes, while a Milanese waiter introduces the menu with an intriguing Robin Williams brand of schtick, complete with reenactments on how to properly suck down langostini. Via Veneto's atmosphere is loud, which makes you grateful your most intimate partner is the food. Dynamite first courses are the succulent portobello mushrooms served on a bed of fried arugula, and ravioli dishes served streaming hot -- with your choice of lobster, ricotta, veal or spinach -- all of which are good enough to send Chef Boyardee into an irreversible spiral of depression. Risottos are creamy and rich, but not too overpowering, and seasoned palates should feel confident in ordering any of the daily selections of fresh fish. Via Veneto has the feel of a place that might require 'lire,' but prices are adamantly American, with antipasti averaging about $14 and entrees landing somewhere in the $20-25 range. But if you like real Italian meals, this one is worth taking to like Anita Ekberg to the Trevi Fountain.