Vincenti Restaurant   

Owner Maureen Vincenti and chef Gino Angelini stress simplicity at their popular Italian kitchen in the heart of Brentwood. Marble counters, warm red hues and blonde wood accents underscore an almost effortless comfort, cinched by a twirling rotisserie and open kitchen that doles out plentiful homemade pastas and whole cooked fish. Vincenti takes all the flavor of the now-defunct Rex and pours it into entrees such as the filet of Mediterranean sea bass and Santa Barbara prawns with artichokes and black truffle sauce, while spit-turned Sonoma squab and roasted quail help light up a menu that's as heavy on fowl as it on fusilli and tagliolini. Parma prosciutto and warm tuna carpaccio lead a procession of fine antipasti, and an extensive assortment of Italian reds and whites also includes selections from Napa and Santa Cruz, for a truly international list. While the staff at Vincenti is knowledgeable and professional, the service is familiar. Wear your jeans and sneakers or opt for your Dolce and Gabbana -- either way, Vincenti welcomes you into its roaring and spicy embrace. -- Jeremy Horelick