Earnestine & Hazel's   

Originally owned and operated by the wife of nightclub impresario Sunbeam Mitchell, the two-story Earnestine & Hazel's boasts a swingin' history. The first-floor bar served as an office for visiting musicians who conducted big business from the booths along the walls. The real action took place upstairs: Part hotel and part brothel, these rooms provided a haven for both down-and-out hookers and up-and-coming soul stars. The early 1990s bore Earnestine & Hazel's a vital face-lift after years of dereliction. Today, the long Formica bar and the black and white tile floor shine clean, and the club attracts a crowd of downtown professionals and local hipsters. New Orleans-bound tourists at Central Station often wander over for a beer, dropping a quarter in the jukebox for Little Junior Parker's 'Mystery Train' before boarding Amtrak. Stop in for a beer and stay for the elegantly shabby atmosphere. Order a thick and juicy Soul Burger, and then venture upstairs to absorb the scene. Finally, cue up a seemingly unspooky record -- an Ike Turner number usually works. If you close your eyes, you nearly hear the walls talk. -- Andria Lisle