Ronnie Grisanti & Sons Rstrnt   

Don't let the strip mall exterior fool you: Ronnie Grisanti & Sons, set on a busy stretch of Poplar Avenue, ranks as one of the city's most venerable institutions. Not content to rest on the laurels for their pasta dishes (the cheesy Elfo is considered a local treasure), Judd and Alex -- the latest generation of Grisantis -- have reinvented their family's Tuscan-style recipes, adding elegant flair to the mix. Don't make your final decision until you hear your crisply attired waiter announce the daily seafood specials, which often include seasonal fare such as herb-encrusted sea bass or delicately grilled grouper. Tender and perfectly cooked, these fish dinners keep the locals coming night after night. Served on a bed of fluffy risotto, or with noodles al dente, they will fill you up without doing too much damage to your waistline or your wallet. -- Andria Lisle