Emperor of China   

Brady Street is hot hot hot these days, and longtime Chinese favorite Emperor of China knows it. Situated between a dingy corner bar and an upscale Middle Eastern restaurant, the Emperor does a brisk takeout business for the Lower East Side's hungry masses, but a sit-down dining experience is well worth the parking dilemmas. Starters include sweet potato tempura and quail Shanghai, sauteed with fragrant spices. Don't skip the soups, especially the chicken sizzling rice soup, which rivals any Mexican restaurants' fajita presentation with its tempting sound and smell. The usually empty bar is well stocked and is a perfect oasis from the hip Brady street contingent. Even standard dishes like Moo Shu Pork and Buddha's Delight are carefully prepared. The Emperor's motto is, "We always give a little extra," and you'll see it's no lie with large servings and servers eager to please. -- Jessica Zierten