Lola's   

3312 Esplanade Ave
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-488-6946

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Downscale chic rules at Lola's, whose Spanish specialties are affordable for anyone with a full- time job. Bring your own wine or beer to this liquor-free restaurant, though, and you might want to tote along earplugs and comfortable shoes. The din inside can be awesome, and the wait outside, frequently an hour or more,sometimes has to be endured in standing position.Is the food at this minuscule storefront dive worth the hassle? The answer depends largely on your garlic tolerance. The "stinking rose" flavors just about everything here but the two desserts, a so-so flan and a better almond-nougat ice cream. The garlic soup is a fine way to start. The paella struck us as too ordinary to deserve the adulation it gets from Lola's fans. More promise is held by the grilled trout, in its admirably simple embellishment of parsley, and the pork loin with a sauce acquiring its deep-red hue from paprika and wine. Fewer than a dozen tables fill the room, which can have its annoyances when smokers or babes in arms are present. The kitchen, completely open to the dining room, adds its voice to the chorus.