Herbsaint   

The French/Creole bistro Herbsaint comes with a pedigree that'll make any Crescent City diner's mouth water: the proprietor/chef at this impressive yet approachable warehouse district venue is Donald Link, who can number Susan Spicer's Bayona and San Francisco's Jardiniere among his accomplishments. From the small plates to the side dishes to the substantial entrees, Link's touch is deft, delicate and undeniably his own. Regulars enjoy the wild green salad spiced with gorgonzola and peppered pecans, as well as an eggplant Napoleon, sinful shrimp bisque, hearty gumbos, meaty short ribs, pork loin, rib-eye, lamb and salmon with a must- have mustard-seed coating. The bar is full service, and is well known for its emphasis on New Orleans' most famous drinks, such as the Sazerac, the Brandy Milk Punch, the Pimm's Cup, and, naturally, various Herbsaint and faux-Absinthe cocktails. Desserts are given full attention, as well -- the chocolate beignets are a nice twist on an old favorite, and the saffroned semolina cake ladled with caramel is a uniquely sinful experience. The environment is a soothing one, bathed with soft shades of green and gold, and the service remains attentive and accessible. Check your pretensions at the door of this casual yet classy supper-club styled venue. --Robert Fontenot, Jr.