The Besh Steakhouse at Harrah's   

Food and Wine magazine named Chef John Besh one of their ''Top 10 Best New Chefs in America,'' and the James Beard Foundation called him a ''rising star of American cuisine.'' Those who have dined at Restaurant August, where he has helmed the kitchen for three years, understand why the accolades keep coming. Now Besh has branched out, opening a namesake steakhouse smack dab in the thick of Louisiana's only land-based casino. It's chic, sleek and very right now, and if you wonder if such a place can consistently put out a good product just steps from nickel slots, the first bite will satisfactorily kill your doubts. The Besh Steakhouse will likely become known for its prime filet mignon over gratin dauphinoise. The secret is flash fried sage, offering the steak its distinctive flavor. Sometimes you just need a good steak and a hearty glass of red wine, and a comfortable place to enjoy it all. This is the place. It is predictably pricey and worth it ($120 per ounce for Beluga caviar.). The moral of this story? Eat more, bet less. -- Paul A. Greenberg