Uncle George's Greek Tavern   

3319 Broadway
Astoria, NY 11106
718-626-0593
www.unclegeorges.us

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In a time of fused cuisines and haute everything, Uncle George's is a classic taverna with authentic food, high-decibel weekend crowds and a quirky wait-staff. Take a window seat on a busy Broadway corner and watch the passers-by -- or dine in the main dining room and play guess-the-scent coming from the kitchen. However you start, go light -- with hunks of 'kefalograviera' cheese or a yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip -- because entrees are a challenge. Among the highlights are broiled shrimp 'tourkolimano' (over sauteed onions, topped with melted feta), red mullets, chicken or pork souvlaki or the exquisite baby shark. On the side, one rule of thumb: Stuffed tomatoes, grape leaves and lemon potatoes really go with anything. For those hankering for the wholly Hellenistic, though, get adventurous with garlicky 'skordalia,' plates of 'kokoretsi' (lamb intestines) or stewed rabbit. While the copper wine cups add a European feel to the meal, don't look for dessert -- you won't find any. That's what the blocks of bakeries along Broadway are for.