Chinatown Brasserie   

380 Lafayette St
New York, NY 10003
212-533-7000
www.chinatownbrasserie.com

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Chinese food comes in two varieties. The first is cheap, dirty and no-questions-asked -- and it arrives on a beat-up bike with a bell. This is the second -- you can tell because the owners also own the upscale Lever House and Lure Fishbar. The traditional restaurant takes advantage of the former Time Cafe space, which now seats nearly 400 people, including on the outdoor patio and an underground lounge where indie bands and comics played at Fez. The upscale menu infuses traditional Chinese cooking with spicy Thai flavors. In addition to classics like General Tso's chicken and crispy orange beef, expect unique dishes like a flatiron steak, lobster with long life noodles, and a steamed branzino in pickled plum. The chef, from La Cote Basque, is rumored to have over 1000 dim sum dishes up his sleeve, around 40 of which can be carted around during any one meal. The owners are aiming for a Mr. Chow pedigree, but with a more hip downtown crowd.