Grimaldi's   

Grimaldi's is at the center of a dispute among New York pizza lovers. It is either the sine qua non of thin-crust, coal-oven pizza, or just one name in a pantheon that includes Lombardi's, Totonno's and a few other places. Honestly, who cares? Grimaldi's is great; if you don't like it, then you don't like pizza. It's certainly worth queuing up in a line that on summer nights can snake 100 feet or more up Old Fulton Street. The ferry landing, the Brooklyn Ice Cream Works and the Manhattan skyline are an easy stroll away, so dinner at Grimaldi's is more than a meal -- it's a whole evening out. The place itself is red-sauce heaven, with checkered tablecloths, framed Sinatra photos on the wall, chianti served in carafes and fresh everything -- from the gourmet black olives to the homemade mozzarella to the crispy crust. Grimaldi's takes pizza very seriously -- they may list a closing time, but when they run out of dough, that's all she wrote. No slices. -- Adam Mazmanian