Pommes Frites   

It's a matter of much debate among the experts, but the Belgians claim to have invented the "French" fry. Regardless, whoever the genius was who first decided to drop potato shards into a pot of boiling fat, we thank him. And we are equally grateful for Pommes Frites, upholders of the Belgian fry tradition. Inside this tiny storefront on Second Avenue -- in what looks like a cramped medieval pub -- hot, delicious fries are served, that and nothing else. They're extra-crispy on the outside, soft and potatoey on the inside. Dusted with salt and sprinkled with vinegar. Hand-cut and twice-fried to greasy perfection while you wait. And you will wait, so be patient. This isn't McDonald's. Inch inside and line up behind the locals in-the-know. Pick out a dipping sauce from among the 28 varieties -- sundried tomato mayo, dijon garlic mustard or sweet chili sauce? -- and prepare to enjoy a batch of the tastiest fries in the city. Just don't call them French. -- Sean Flannagan