Cafe Lalo   

Lalo isn't the type of cafe for loitering or poetic reflection over a few cigarettes. People come here for dessert -- any and all kinds of desserts -- a veritable encyclopedic selection of desserts. Hazelnut mousse with Frangelico, apple walnut flan, 27 kinds of cheesecakes, 18 kinds of tarts, 26 varieties of pies -- it's staggering. There is more to the menu however, such as connoisseur cheese plates served with quince preserve and dried fig-almond cake, salads, and unusual sandwiches such as cauliflower, but the bright-as-an-ice-cream-parlor room makes one think dessert and fancy coffees. You'd never expect that one of their menus contains a larger variety of liquors than most bars, and of course, their frozen drinks are masterfully concocted. Framed Cappielo advertising prints cover the brick walls, the fixtures sparkle and shine, and there's not a wobbly table in the place. The picturesque interior and landmark status won it as a location in the film 'You've Got Mail,' which is appropriate as it is probably one of the most popular date spots in the neighborhood. On peak nights expect a wait, but there are benches and tiled patio chairs outside, set under Christmas light-entwined trees. -- Dan Glass